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Loom
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Device for weaving textiles
For other uses, see Loom (disambiguation).
Not to be confused with Knitting machine.
A foot-treadle operated Hattersley & Sons, Domestic Loom, built under
licence in 1893, in Keighley, Yorkshire
A woman in Konya, Turkey, works at a vertical loom
A simple handheld frame loom
A loom is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The basic purpose
of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the
interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its
mechanics may vary, but the basic function is the same.
[ ]
Contents
* 1 Etymology and usage
* 2 Weaving
* 3 Types of looms
+ 3.1 Back strap loom
+ 3.2 Warp-weighted loom
+ 3.3 Drawloom
+ 3.4 Handloom
+ 3.5 Flying shuttle
+ 3.6 Haute-lisse and basse-lisse looms
+ 3.7 Ribbon, Band, and Inkle weaving
+ 3.8 Traditional looms
* 4 Power looms
+ 4.1 Weft insertion
+ 4.2 Shedding
o 4.2.1 Dobby looms
o 4.2.2 Jacquard looms
* 5 Circular looms
* 6 Symbolism and cultural significance
* 7 Gallery
* 8 See also
* 9 References
* 10 Bibliography
* 11 External links
Etymology and usage[edit]
The word "loom" derives from the Old English geloma, formed from ge-
(perfective prefix) and loma, a root of unknown origin; the whole word
geloma meant a utensil, tool, or machine of any kind. In 1404 "lome"
was used to mean a machine to enable weaving thread into
cloth.^[1]^[2]^[failed verification] By 1838 "loom" had gained the
additional meaning of a machine for interlacing thread.^[citation
needed]
Weaving[edit]
See also: Weaving and Textile manufacturing terminology
Weaving demonstration on an 1830 handloom in the weaving museum in
Leiden
Weaving is done by intersecting the longitudinal threads, the warp,
i.e. "that which is thrown across",^[3] with the transverse threads,
the weft, i.e. "that which is woven".
The major components of the loom are the warp beam, heddles, harnesses
or shafts (as few as two, four is common, sixteen not unheard of),
shuttle, reed and takeup roll. In the loom, yarn processing includes
shedding, picking, battening and taking-up operations. These are the
principal motions.
* Shedding. Shedding is the raising of part of the warp yarn to form
a shed (the vertical space between the raised and unraised warp
yarns), through which the filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can
be inserted, forming the weft. On the modern loom, simple and
intricate shedding operations are performed automatically by the
heddle or heald frame, also known as a harness. This is a
rectangular frame to which a series of wires, called heddles or
healds, are attached. The yarns are passed through the eye holes of
the heddles, which hang vertically from the harnesses. The weave
pattern determines which harness controls which warp yarns, and the
number of harnesses used depends on the complexity of the weave.
Two common methods of controlling the heddles are dobbies and a
Jacquard Head.
Shuttles
* Picking. As the harnesses raise the heddles or healds, which raise
the warp yarns, the shed is created. The filling yarn is inserted
through the shed by a small carrier device called a shuttle. The
shuttle is normally pointed at each end to allow passage through
the shed. In a traditional shuttle loom, the filling yarn is wound
onto a quill, which in turn is mounted in the shuttle. The filling
yarn emerges through a hole in the shuttle as it moves across the
loom. A single crossing of the shuttle from one side of the loom to
the other is known as a pick. As the shuttle moves back and forth
across the shed, it weaves an edge, or selvage, on each side of the
fabric to prevent the fabric from raveling.
* Battening. Between the heddles and the takeup roll, the warp
threads pass through another frame called the reed (which resembles
a comb). The portion of the fabric that has already been formed but
not yet rolled up on the takeup roll is called the fell. After the
shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill yarn, the weaver
uses the reed to press (or batten) each filling yarn against the
fell. Conventional shuttle looms can operate at speeds of about 150
to 160 picks per minute.^[4]
There are two secondary motions, because with each weaving operation
the newly constructed fabric must be wound on a cloth beam. This
process is called taking up. At the same time, the warp yarns must be
let off or released from the warp beams. To become fully automatic, a
loom needs a tertiary motion, the filling stop motion. This will brake
the loom if the weft thread breaks.^[4] An automatic loom requires
0.125 hp to 0.5 hp to operate.
Types of looms[edit]
Back strap loom[edit]
Woman weaving a silk rebozo on a backstrap loom at the Taller Escuela
de Reboceria in Santa Maria del Rio, San Luis Potosi
T'boli dream weavers using two-bar bamboo backstrap looms (legogong) to
weave t'nalak cloth from abaca fiber. One bar is attached to the
ceiling of the traditional T'boli longhouse, while the other is
attached to the lower back.^[5]^[6]
The back strap loom is a simple loom that has its roots in ancient
civilizations. Andean textiles, still made today with the back strap
loom, originated thousands of years ago with the same back strap loom
process. It consists of two sticks or bars between which the warps are
stretched. One bar is attached to a fixed object and the other to the
weaver, usually by means of a strap around the back. The weaver leans
back and uses her body weight to tension the loom. On traditional
looms, the two main sheds are operated by means of a shed roll over
which one set of warps pass, and continuous string heddles which encase
each of the warps in the other set. To open the shed controlled by the
string heddles, the weaver relaxes tension on the warps and raises the
heddles. The other shed is usually opened by simply drawing the shed
roll toward the weaver.
Both simple and complex textiles can be woven on this loom. Width is
limited to how far the weaver can reach from side to side to pass the
shuttle. Warp faced textiles, often decorated with intricate pick-up
patterns woven in complementary and supplementary warp techniques are
woven by indigenous peoples today around the world. They produce such
things as belts, ponchos, bags, hatbands and carrying cloths.
Supplementary weft patterning and brocading is practiced in many
regions. Balanced weaves are also possible on the backstrap loom.
Today, commercially produced backstrap loom kits often include a rigid
heddle.^[citation needed]
Warp-weighted loom[edit]
Main article: Warp-weighted loom
The warp-weighted loom is a vertical loom that may have originated in
the Neolithic period. The earliest evidence of warp-weighted looms
comes from sites belonging to the Starcevo culture in modern Serbia and
Hungary and from late Neolithic sites in Switzerland.^[7] This loom was
used in Ancient Greece, and spread north and west throughout Europe
thereafter.^[8] Its defining characteristic is hanging weights (loom
weights) which keep bundles of the warp threads taut. Frequently, extra
warp thread is wound around the weights. When a weaver has reached the
bottom of the available warp, the completed section can be rolled
around the top beam, and additional lengths of warp threads can be
unwound from the weights to continue. This frees the weaver from
vertical size constraint.
Drawloom[edit]
A drawloom is a hand-loom for weaving figured cloth. In a drawloom, a
"figure harness" is used to control each warp thread separately.^[9] A
drawloom requires two operators, the weaver and an assistant called a
"drawboy" to manage the figure harness. The earliest confirmed drawloom
fabrics come from the State of Chu and date c. 400 BC.^[10] Most
scholars attribute the invention of the drawloom to the ancient
Chinese, although some speculate an independent invention from ancient
Syria since drawloom fabrics found in Dura-Europas are thought to date
before 256 AD.^[10]^[11] The draw loom for patterned weaving was
invented in ancient China during the Han Dynasty.^[12] Chinese weavers
and artisans used foot-powered multi-harness looms and jacquard looms
for silk weaving and embroidery; both of which were cottage industries
with imperial workshops.^[13] The Chinese-invented drawloom enhanced
and sped up the production of silk and play a significant role in
Chinese silk weaving. The loom was later introduced to Persia, India,
and Europe.^[12]
Handloom[edit]
Elements of a foot-treadle floor loom
Warsztat.svg
1. Wood frame
2. Seat for weaver
3. Warp beam- let off
4. Warp threads
5. Back beam or platen
6. Rods - used to make a shed
7. Heddle frame - heald frame - harness
8. Heddle- heald - the eye
9. Shuttle with weft yarn
10. Shed
11. Completed fabric
12. Breast beam
13. Batten with reed comb
14. Batten adjustment
15. Lathe
16. Treadles
17. Cloth roll- takeup
Traditional loom at Ranipauwa Muktinath, Nepal
A handloom is a simple machine used for weaving. In a wooden
vertical-shaft loom, the heddles are fixed in place in the shaft. The
warp threads pass alternately through a heddle, and through a space
between the heddles (the shed), so that raising the shaft raises half
the threads (those passing through the heddles), and lowering the shaft
lowers the same threads -- the threads passing through the spaces
between the heddles remain in place. This was invented in the 13th
century.^[citation needed] It can have a Jacquard machine attached to
it.^[14] Handloom weavers commonly use three types of looms: pit looms,
stand looms, and frame looms. ^[15]
Flying shuttle[edit]
Main article: Flying shuttle
Hand weavers could only weave a cloth as wide as their armspan. If
cloth needed to be wider, two people would do the task (often this
would be an adult with a child). John Kay (1704-1779) patented the
flying shuttle in 1733. The weaver held a picking stick that was
attached by cords to a device at both ends of the shed. With a flick of
the wrist, one cord was pulled and the shuttle was propelled through
the shed to the other end with considerable force, speed and
efficiency. A flick in the opposite direction and the shuttle was
propelled back. A single weaver had control of this motion but the
flying shuttle could weave much wider fabric than an arm's length at
much greater speeds than had been achieved with the hand thrown
shuttle.
The flying shuttle was one of the key developments in weaving that
helped fuel the Industrial Revolution. The whole picking motion no
longer relied on manual skill and it was just a matter of time before
it could be powered.
Haute-lisse and basse-lisse looms[edit]
Looms used for weaving traditional tapestry are classified as
haute-lisse looms, where the warp is suspended vertically between two
rolls. In basse-lisse looms, however, the warp extends horizontally
between the two rolls.
Ribbon, Band, and Inkle weaving[edit]
Main article: Inkle weaving
Traditional looms[edit]
Several other types of hand looms exist, including the simple frame
loom, pit loom, free-standing loom, and the pegged loom. Each of these
can be constructed, and provide work and income in developing
economies.^[16]
The earliest evidence of a horizontal loom is found on a pottery dish
in ancient Egypt, dated to 4400 BC. It was a frame loom, equipped with
foot pedals to lift the warp threads, leaving the weaver's hands free
to pass and beat the weft thread.^[17]
Power looms[edit]
Main article: Power loom
Two Lancashire looms in the Queen Street Mill weaving shed, Burnley
A 1939 loom working at the Mueller Cloth Mill museum in Euskirchen,
Germany.
Edmund Cartwright built and patented a power loom in 1785, and it was
this that was adopted by the nascent cotton industry in England. The
silk loom made by Jacques Vaucanson in 1745 operated on the same
principles but was not developed further. The invention of the flying
shuttle by John Kay was critical to the development of a commercially
successful power loom.^[18] Cartwright's loom was impractical but the
ideas behind it were developed by numerous inventors in the Manchester
area of England where, by 1818, there were 32 factories containing
5,732 looms.^[19]
Horrocks loom was viable, but it was the Roberts Loom in 1830 that
marked the turning point.^[20] Incremental changes to the three motions
continued to be made. The problems of sizing, stop-motions, consistent
take-up, and a temple to maintain the width remained. In 1841,
Kenworthy and Bullough produced the Lancashire Loom^[21] which was
self-acting or semi-automatic. This enables a youngster to run six
looms at the same time. Thus, for simple calicos, the power loom became
more economical to run than the hand loom - with complex patterning
that used a dobby or Jacquard head, jobs were still put out to handloom
weavers until the 1870s. Incremental changes were made such as the
Dickinson Loom, culminating in the Keighley-born inventor Northrop, who
was working for the Draper Corporation in Hopedale producing the fully
automatic Northrop Loom. This loom recharged the shuttle when the pirn
was empty. The Draper E and X models became the leading products from
1909. They were challenged by synthetic fibres such as rayon.^[22] By
1942, faster, more efficient, and shuttleless Sulzer and rapier looms
had been introduced.^[23] Modern industrial looms can weave at 2,000
weft insertions per minute.^[24]
Weft insertion[edit]
A Picanol rapier loom
Different types of looms are most often defined by the way that the
weft, or pick, is inserted into the warp. Many advances in weft
insertion have been made in order to make manufactured cloth more cost
effective. There are five main types of weft insertion and they are as
follows:
* Shuttle: The first-ever powered looms were shuttle-type looms.
Spools of weft are unravelled as the shuttle travels across the
shed. This is very similar to projectile methods of weaving, except
that the weft spool is stored on the shuttle. These looms are
considered obsolete in modern industrial fabric manufacturing
because they can only reach a maximum of 300 picks per minute.
* Air jet: An air-jet loom uses short quick bursts of compressed air
to propel the weft through the shed in order to complete the weave.
Air jets are the fastest traditional method of weaving in modern
manufacturing and they are able to achieve up to 1,500 picks per
minute. However, the amounts of compressed air required to run
these looms, as well as the complexity in the way the air jets are
positioned, make them more costly than other looms.
* Water jet: Water-jet looms use the same principle as air-jet looms,
but they take advantage of pressurized water to propel the weft.
The advantage of this type of weaving is that water power is
cheaper where water is directly available on site. Picks per minute
can reach as high as 1,000.
* Rapier loom: This type of weaving is very versatile, in that rapier
looms can weave using a large variety of threads. There are several
types of rapiers, but they all use a hook system attached to a rod
or metal band to pass the pick across the shed. These machines
regularly reach 700 picks per minute in normal production.
* Projectile: Projectile looms utilize an object that is propelled
across the shed, usually by spring power, and is guided across the
width of the cloth by a series of reeds. The projectile is then
removed from the weft fibre and it is returned to the opposite side
of the machine so it can be reused. Multiple projectiles are in use
in order to increase the pick speed. Maximum speeds on these
machines can be as high as 1,050 ppm.
Shedding[edit]
Dobby looms[edit]
A dobby loom is a type of floor loom that controls the whole warp
threads using a dobby head. Dobby is a corruption of "draw boy" which
refers to the weaver's helpers who used to control the warp thread by
pulling on draw threads. A dobby loom is an alternative to a treadle
loom, where multiple harnesses (shafts) were controlled by foot
treadles - one for each harness.
Jacquard looms[edit]
Main article: Jacquard loom
The Jacquard loom is a mechanical loom, invented by Joseph Marie
Jacquard in 1801, which simplifies the process of manufacturing
textiles with complex patterns such as brocade, damask and
matelasse.^[25]^[26] The loom is controlled by punched cards with
punched holes, each row of which corresponds to one row of the design.
Multiple rows of holes are punched on each card and the many cards that
compose the design of the textile are strung together in order. It is
based on earlier inventions by the Frenchmen Basile Bouchon (1725),
Jean Baptiste Falcon (1728) and Jacques Vaucanson (1740).^[27] To call
it a loom is a misnomer, a Jacquard head could be attached to a power
loom or a hand loom, the head controlling which warp thread was raised
during shedding. Multiple shuttles could be used to control the colour
of the weft during picking. The Jacquard loom is the predecessor to the
computer punched card readers of the 19th and 20th centuries.^[28]
* Hand operated Jacquard looms in the Textile Department of the
Strzeminski Academy of Fine Arts in L/odz, Poland.
Hand operated Jacquard looms in the Textile Department of the
Strzeminski Academy of Fine Arts in L/odz, Poland.
* Battening on a jacquard loom in L/odz.
Battening on a jacquard loom in L/odz.
* A female worker changing jacquard cards in a lace machine in a
Nottingham factory (1918 (First World War)).
A female worker changing jacquard cards in a lace machine in a
Nottingham factory (1918 (First World War)).
* Boy next to two weaving looms with the weaving pattern on reams of
paper (India).
Boy next to two weaving looms with the weaving pattern on reams of
paper (India).
* Following the pattern, holes are punched in the appropriate places
on a jacquard card.
Following the pattern, holes are punched in the appropriate places
on a jacquard card.
* Manual loom with double width and jacquard loom, Colegio del Arte
Mayor de la Seda of Valencia.
Manual loom with double width and jacquard loom, Colegio del Arte
Mayor de la Seda of Valencia.
* The Jacquard cards control the healds on a loom.
The Jacquard cards control the healds on a loom.
Circular looms[edit]
A circular loom is used to create a seamless tube of fabric for
products such as hosiery, sacks, clothing, fabric hose (such as fire
hose) and the like. Circular looms can be small jigs used for circular
knitting^[29] or large high-speed machines for modern garments.^[30]
Modern circular looms use up to ten shuttles driven from below in a
circular motion by electromagnets for the weft yarns, and cams to
control the warp threads. The warps rise and fall with each shuttle
passage, unlike the common practice of lifting all of them at once.
Symbolism and cultural significance[edit]
The loom is a symbol of cosmic creation and the structure upon which
individual destiny is woven. This symbolism is encapsulated in the
classical myth of Arachne who was changed into a spider by the goddess
Athena, who was jealous of her skill at the godlike craft of
weaving.^[31] In Maya civilization the goddess Ixchel taught the first
woman how to weave at the beginning of time.^[32]
Gallery[edit]
* Model of Navajo Loom, late 19th century, Brooklyn Museum.jpg
Model of Navajo Loom, late 19th century, Brooklyn Museum.jpg
* An early nineteenth century Japanese loom with several heddles,
which the weaver controls with her foot
An early nineteenth century Japanese loom with several heddles,
which the weaver controls with her foot
* A Jakaltek Maya brocades a hair sash on a back strap loom.
A Jakaltek Maya brocades a hair sash on a back strap loom.
* Hand loom at Hjerl Hede, Denmark, showing grayish warp threads
(back) and cloth woven with red filling yarn (front)
Hand loom at Hjerl Hede, Denmark, showing grayish warp threads
(back) and cloth woven with red filling yarn (front)
* Oaxacan artisan Alberto Sanchez Martinez at loom
Oaxacan artisan Alberto Sanchez Martinez at loom
* Hand loom at the Korkosz Croft in Czarna Gora, Poland, 19th century
Hand loom at the Korkosz Croft in Czarna Gora, Poland, 19th century
* A loom in an Old Believer homestead in Slutiski, Latvia
A loom in an Old Believer homestead in Slutiski, Latvia
* Handloom from India
Handloom from India
* Weaver from India showing handloom during an exhibition
Weaver from India showing handloom during an exhibition
* A Grecian urn showing an upright loom
A Grecian urn showing an upright loom
See also[edit]
* Bunkar: The Last of the Varanasi Weavers (documentary film)
* Fashion and Textile Museum
* Textile manufacturing
* Timeline of clothing and textiles technology
* Weaving (mythology)
References[edit]
1. ^ "loom". Oxford English Dictionary (Online ed.). Oxford University
Press. (Subscription or participating institution membership
required.)
2. ^ "loom - Origin and meaning of loom by Online Etymology
Dictionary". www.etymonline.com.
3. ^ "warp - Search Online Etymology Dictionary". www.etymonline.com.
4. ^ ^a ^b Collier 1970, p. 104.
5. ^ Lush, Emily. "Making of: T'nalak Weaving, Philippines". The
Textile Atlas. Retrieved 3 April 2019.
6. ^ "Abaca". White Champa. Retrieved 3 April 2019.
7. ^ Barber 1991, pp. 93-96.
8. ^ Crowfoot 1937, p. 36.
9. ^ Burnham 1980, p. 48.
10. ^ ^a ^b Broudy 1979, p. 124.
11. ^ Forbes 1987, pp. 218, 220.
12. ^ ^a ^b Ceccarelli, Marco; Lopez-Cajun, Carlos (2012). Explorations
in the History of Machines and Mechanisms: Proceedings of HMM2012
(History of Mechanism and Machine Science). Springer. pp. 219-220.
ISBN 978-9400799448.
13. ^ Usher, Abbott Payson (2011). A History of Mechanical Inventions.
Dover Publications. p. 54. ISBN 978-0486255934.
14. ^ "Handloom VS Powerloom". 19 March 2020. Archived from the
original on 2020-12-01.
15. ^ "Know Your Handlooms". DAMA Handloom Store. 2020-10-18. Retrieved
2022-03-24.
16. ^ Koster, Joan (1978). Handloom Construction: A Practical Guide for
the Non-Expert. Volunteers in Technical Assistance, Inc. Archived
from the original on 2 March 2014.
17. ^ Bruno, Leonard C.; Olendorf, Donna (1997). Science and technology
firsts. Gale Research. p. 2. ISBN 9780787602567. "4400 B.C.
Earliest evidence of the use of a horizontal loom is its depiction
on a pottery dish found in Egypt and dated to this time. These
first true frame looms are equipped with foot pedals to lift the
warp threads, leaving the weaver's hands free to pass and beat the
weft thread."
18. ^ Marsden 1895, p. 57.
19. ^ Guest 1823, p. 46.
20. ^ Marsden 1895, p. 76.
21. ^ Marsden 1895, p. 94.
22. ^ Mass 1990.
23. ^ Collier 1970, p. 111.
24. ^ Rajagopalan, S. "Advances in Weaving Technology and Looms".
S.S.M. College of Engineering, Komarapalayam. Archived from the
original on 29 November 2010 - via Pdexcil.org.
25. ^ Hobsbawm, Eric (2008) [1962]. The Age of Revolution. London.
p. 45.
26. ^ "Fabric Glossary". Christina Lynn. Archived from the original on
5 January 2009. Retrieved 21 November 2008.
27. ^ Razy 1913, p. 120.
28. ^ Geselowitz, Michael N. (18 July 2016). "The Jacquard Loom: A
Driver of the Industrial Revolution". The Institute: The IEEE news
source. IEEE. Archived from the original on 1 April 2018. Retrieved
31 March 2018.
29. ^ Jocelyn C. (22 December 2008). How to: Cast on/Knit using a
Circular Loom. Archived from the original on 2021-11-14. Retrieved
27 June 2016 - via YouTube.
30. ^ "Circular Looms". Starlinger. Retrieved 27 June 2016.
31. ^ Tresidder, Jack (1997). The Hutchinson Dictionary of Symbols.
London: Helicon Publishers. p. 127. ISBN 1-85986-059-1.
32. ^ Rosenbaum, Brenda P. (1990). "Mayan Women, Weaving and Ethnic
Identity: a Historical Essay". Guatemala: Museo Ixchel del Traje
Indigena: 157-169.
Bibliography[edit]
*
Barber, E. J. W. (1991). Prehistoric Textiles. Princeton University
Press. ISBN 0-691-00224-X.
Broudy, Eric (1979). The Book of Looms: A History of the Handloom
from Ancient Times to the Present. Hanover and London: University Press
of New England. ISBN 9780874516494.
Burnham, Dorothy K. (1980). Warp and Weft: A Textile Terminology.
Royal Ontario Museum. ISBN 0-88854-256-9.
Collier, Ann M. (1970). A Handbook of Textiles. Pergamon Press.
ISBN 0-08-018057-4.
Crowfoot, Grace (November 1937). "Of the Warp-Weighted Loom". The
Annual of the British School at Athens. 37: 36-47.
doi:10.1017/s0068245400017950. S2CID 193172489.
Forbes, R. J. (1987). Studies in Ancient Technology, Volume 4. Leiden
/ New York: E. J. Brill. ISBN 9004083073.
Guest, Richard (1823). The Compendious History of Cotton-Manufacture.
Retrieved 15 February 2009.
Marsden, Richard (1895). Cotton Weaving: Its Development, Principles,
and Practice. George Bell & Sons. Archived from the original on
2018-06-29. Retrieved 2009-04-19.
Mass, William (1990). "The Decline of a Technology Leader:Capability,
strategy and shuttleless Weaving" (PDF). Business and Economic History.
ISSN 0894-6825.
Razy, C. (1913). Etude analytique des petits modeles de metiers
exposes au musee des tissus (in French). Lyon, France: Musee historique
des tissus.
Ventura, Carol (2003). Maya Hair Sashes Backstrap Woven in
Jacaltenango, Guatemala, Cintas Mayas tejidas con el telar de cintura
en Jacaltenango, Guatemala. Carol Ventura. ISBN 0-9721253-1-0.
External links[edit]
Look up loom in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Looms.
* Loom demonstration video
* "Caring for your loom" article
* "The Art and History of Weaving"
* The Medieval Technology Pages: "The Horizontal Loom"
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